14 April Sunday – Siler Bald Shelter to Wesser Bald Shelter

Tough day.  

Severe thunderstorms, which were cold.  

The Trail got slippery and difficult right away.  I had a couple of complications.   A couple miles in, my calf caused me to limp for a couple steps and then pulled me up short.  

Stopped.   I could not walk.  

I had to sit down in the middle of the muddy Trail to massage my right calf for a long time, while being lashed by ice rain,  60+ mph winds, and the full wrath of God.  It was a low moment.  After massaging for a long time I was able to go another half mile.   I started my massage again and continued- I slowly limped  into the nearest shelter which was fortunately only 2 1/2 miles from me at that point.  

I joined many other freezing hypothermic hikers there.   I cannot tell you how focused we were on getting into our dry clothes and into a sleeping bag until we could warm up enough to think.  

Just before the Shelter, in the last part of this delightful little journey, I slipped hard and slammed down onto my left shoulder.  I bounced up fearful that I had just flushed $250,000 worth of surgery down the drain but my left shoulder – which has been totally replaced surgically – seemed fine after all.  We all stayed in the shelter that night; the storms were unbelievable.

Here’s a couple of short movies I took when I finally warmed up enough to get out of the sleeping bag.  

4 April – Bly Gap to Standing Indian Shelter (7.7 miles)

Woke up and had someone take my picture outside of my tent.  As you can see, I’ve adopted the arch countenance of a savvy Thru-Hiker who’s not as dumb as he looks.

Next.  Throughout this hike I thought of what Next has meant to my life.  There has always been something next.  The next job, the next apartment, the next relationship.  During my entire life in the Army, there has always been the next training school, the next place we’re going, the next big project, the next new doctrine, and of course, -always- the next rank. 


Even on the Appalachian Trail I now find myself with hamster-head (hamster on a wheel inside the head) about the next stream to refill on water, the next camp site, the next mountain, the next weather pattern, the next meal, the next shelter, and the next resupply point.
   

Maybe it’s time for Now.  Memory asked me if there was something ‘next’ for me after the hike.  I don’t think so.  I came upon this little stand of wildflower Mountain Bluets standing in the middle of the Trail in North Carolina today.  I took my pack off and watched the breeze caress them gently for a while.  It was enough to make one cry.  Now. 

30 March – Low Gap Shelter to Unicoi Gap / Helen Georgia [9.7]

Sure rained last night.                

Woke up early, felt great again and got going.  I’m stopping at Helen, GA for my first Zero day to catch up on- I mean start!- the blog and hopefully, I can keep current day to day from that point on.  Broke down my tent in the cold and wet again at a pretty-well occupied site and took off early.  Chugged away all day- another day I felt very strong.  Hmmm . . .  maybe I’ll be putting up those 15’s and 20’s after all . . . but of course I’m supposed to start out with 8’s for the first two weeks per universal advice. . .          

Got to Unicoi Gap uneventfully, and with some good hours-long stretches of solitude while loving the great outdoors … still very cold for this time of year I’m told but no significant rain today.           

Hitchhiked from Unicoi Gap to the wonderful touristy (Bavarian-themed) town of Helen, GA.           

AGAIN I got a ride on my first try.  But this time was very different.  Oh  . . . yes . . . it . . . was . . . The gentleman who pulled over had a Coast Guard hat on, declared he was a Navy veteran, and had a truck filled with military and survival gear.  And trash.  OK.  Did I mention that I’m in the hills, crags, and hollers of North Nowhere Georgia?  As I’m getting in the truck, he’s talking a mile a minute and never stopped talking even as he was pulling away after dropping me off in Helen, Georgia.           

What did we (he) talk about?:  First, of course, these are the actual Bigfoot Hills.  He’s got photos of footprints right on his camera right now.  Wanna’ see?  Don’t go out there now!  He’s pointing to the woods that I am deliberately hiking in by life design.  Also, a lot of stuff goes on around here . . . be careful.  This was where the first real Gold Rush happened, and some folks practice alchemy here to this day.  I’ve been traveling all over.  I used to do secret stuff in the Navy, wore a black suit all the time– let’s just say that.   Do you have a gun?  (This was one of the few times I spoke; I said ‘I’m a really good shot.’)  They’s a guy who lives in these hills they call Daddy who’s 12 feet tall and he isn’t even Bigfoot.  (By this point, I’m hearing banjo music but his truck radio wasn’t on.)  This whole place is Cherokee.  I’m Cherokee.  Wanna’ go see an Indian Burial site with me right now?  (Geez . . . really got to get to my place for the night instead)  See these rivers?  They ain’t the real rivers . . . I’ll tell you about that sometime.  My mother gave me this truck.  Here, I’m giving you this rock, it has properties . . .          

And on and on . . .                 

As I was getting out, he showed me the pictures of Bigfoot footprints on his camera.  They are real! How ’bout that?!  And all this time I thought he was just plumb crazy. 

I was grateful for the ride and also grateful I didn’t end up as part of some kind of moonlight sacrifice. 

Ladies, maybe don’t hitchhike alone around these parts . . .         

Trust me.

28 March – Lance Creek Campsite to Neel Gap [7.3 miles]

Left Lance Creek campsite, crossed ultimately up and over the dreaded Blood Mountain and moved on to the famous Neel Gap site for the night.   Considering the mountain, the biggest for us yet, this was a decent day for me.  My legs are a little better.  What was I whining about all that time?  Anyway, I chugged along and got to Neel Gap.  Forgot to tell you:  all of the Trail so far is up and down Georgia mountains . . .real elevation changes constantly it seems. 

This (Neel Gap) is historically a significant landmark for Thru-Hikers to get to for two main reasons: 

1.)  several facilities are set up to cater to the Thru-Hiker who has just had his first whole week of body shock-and-awe, and 2.) many people quit here as it is on a major road that people can use to bail out of the whole thing:  see ‘The Tree’.

I took advantage of the facilities.  Got a neck massage from physical therapy students set up under a tent, talked to a physical therapist about my quads for a long time (you’ll be good- looks like some good ole’ bilateral overuse pain), poked around the store, resupplied. 

Hung out at a fire that night with about 8 guys who were moving on the next morning.  It was a UN assembly again.  We told jokes, measured dicks, some guys had beer, and we all felt like leaving Neel Gap in the morning and heading North was when the real Appalachian Trail begins!  When does this goddamned thing start? At the fire I was with Sponge-Bob, Echo, Tree-Hugger, Night Walker, Scarecrow, etc . . . you see, some guys are already getting their Trail names.  I don’t have one yet. . . plenty of time for that.  Funny stories behind the names.  (i.e. One of the guys got called a tree hugger in two separate incidents the same day, and by coincidence is an arborist, and so got the name Tree-Hugger.  Perfect!  You should hear him tell the story.  Meeting some really cool guys out here.)

25 March – Black Gap to Hawk Mountain Campsite

Came up and over Springer Mountain and stopped at the top to see the even more iconic plaques at the peak of Springer Mountain (the historic and real start point of the venture- I’ll explain when I get back!)   Sustained ice rain began shortly after I left Springer.   But, though my legs/quads were on fire, I marionetted onwards.  Drinking tons of water.   With rain coming late afternoon I bailed out into Hawk Mountain campsite versus Shelter.  Got a good spot, set up in time for the rain and was in the sleeping bag as it got dark when the torrents began.  Hellfire storm, with protracted lightning flashes, thunder, sudden hail, and, I kid you not- machine gun fire.  So, as I’m laying there, another hiker walked by and saw my light on in my tent and asked over if the machine gun fire worried me.  Nope. ” Why, do you know what it is?”  Yep.  “What?”  It is U.S. Army Ranger School, Mountaineering Phase, in progress this fine evening.  You see, 35 years ago, to this month, I was myself a student at this very school, training in this very stretch of the Chatahootchee National Forest,  and they still train right here and you just heard a Raid in progress.   The kid was amazed, and stood outside my tent asking me all about it for awhile.  We had a good laugh and he ambled on.  Fitful night of sleep due to the cold (still haven’t caved in to getting a ‘puffy’ jacket) and my legs adjusting. In the morning as I went downhill to get water for the day’s hike, I passed this same guy’s tent and we talked in the morning light for awhile.  His name is Nate and he is an Outward Bound Instructor for the Everglades portion.  Of course I pumped him all about that course and what he does there -it was fascinating, and he wanted to know more about my Army training,  and we talked all about the AT as well.   Then I was off . . . 

Day Before: 23 March 2019

I planned the trip to commence on the day I received a 6-month coin (Chip) from my Gloucester Early Bird Meeting of AA (great people and a great daily morning meeting) and Keith presented me with this 6-month coin as an accomplishment.  During his presentation to me in front of a crowd of about 60 people, he noted that “Kevin’s had a pretty adventurous life and I thought nothing Kevin could do would surprise me at this point, but whenever he quit drinking …”  Everybody laughed heartily.    

 Memory was at the meeting as well and drove me directly to the airport from the meeting.  It was a tough goodbye, especially because of how amazing of a woman she is and all the support she’s given me since I met her.  Even more amazing, she’s attempting to indulge this bucket-list effort of mine.  Most of my family, and all sane people, are telling her to move on, but, hey- she’s giving it a shot. I love that gal.  

Flight to Atlanta.  Uber to an REI to get a fuel canister for my backpacking stove, Uber to get to the famous Amicalola Falls State Park, Georgia– start point for the Appalachian Trail.  (AT).  I looked around a little bit at the State Park and finally settled on sleeping under a picnic bench within sight of the start point.  I slept on cement and froze.  Didn’t sleep much.