2 May – Brown Gap to Deer Park Mountain (20.1 miles)

Long great day.  I was moving.  Up and over Max Patch Mountain, Walnut Mountain, and Bluff Mountain before a 7.5 mile gradual descent to Deer Park Mountain.  I set up near a water source and had the place to myself for the night, though many other hikers were set up within walking distance.  It was nice to have the water and the frogs for company.

This was the first day I put the earbuds in and listened to anything from my phone while I hiked.  Hey- I lasted a long time (5 weeks) out here listening to just the birds, the wind through the trees, the rushing of the waters over the rocks in the green glades, (and, when I lay down at night, I can hear the mice just outside my tent making un-Christian-like comments about my ancestry [since I hang my food bag up in a tree]).  

I listened to an interesting podcast for a good hour today; it was a conversation between the great Sam Harris (an American neuroscientist, philosopher, author, critic of religion, blogger, and public intellectual), and one Daniel Kahneman (notable for his work on the psychology of judgment and decision-making).  This conversation added an interesting postscript to something I’ve been thinking about recently.  I’ll tell you about it, but strap in, this doesn’t go in a straight line.

What I’ve been thinking about recently is:  the ‘Q’ word.  If there are delicate ears in the room, please feel no shame in leaving, –and by all means, usher the women and children out.

Ready?: The word is ‘quitting’. 

I don’t now (remember this word) believe I’m going to quit this AT thing, but I’ve been thinking about the concept, and the role it’s played in my life, in the past and recently.  The reason it’s a recent line of thought-inquiry of mine is because I was recently privy to an email wherein my brother Keith expressed pride to a couple of my friends that I didn’t quit after the sickness episode.  And I was indeed proud that my older brother Keith, known as the ‘responsible’ twin (and nothing in all these years to disprove it), was proud of me.  Yet, I have a couple of things to say about this issue, and I believe I am well-positioned to speak upon it given how many times in my life I have been tested in this regard.  First, everyone thinks of quitting.  Indeed, I was a little shocked when I started going to great Army schools with high attrition rates and saw people quit, and occasionally thought about quitting myself.  I sought out every tough Army school they had, and went to most of them, and never quit.  But, I did often think of quitting.  Now- here’s the main point to my recent ruminations over it:  although I remember wanting to quit, I don’t really remember very much the long sequence of experiencing the misery that drove me to that point.  I can intellectualize it, I can quote the attrition rates, I can tell you about the food and sleep deprivation, I can tell you about getting hurt, freezing in the mountains, passing out in the jungles, the morale crashes and despair, but I don’t really feel it very much . . . now.  I more-so feel the happiness of having graduated that school, that test of whatever sort.  I just know that I ended up always not quitting.  I know that I learned the adage long ago to ‘never quit on a bad day’.  Many people did, but I try to wait a day.  If everything’s going great and you really want to quit that thing, then you really want to quit.

Now, to bring this full circle:  I’ve wanted to quit twice already on this AT trip.  When I couldn’t walk and was sitting down in the middle of the ice-rain massaging my calf, and limped 2.7 miles to a shelter over the course of several hours, I arrived fully hypothermic and was convinced that if I warmed up- that was it! That one didn’t last very long . . . I eventually warmed up and the calf healed quicker than I thought it would and it turned out not to be a permanent injury. 

The second one was the sickness of course …when the Forest Service people showed up, I was convinced that I was going home, and, believe me, it seemed like a decently defendable position.  I was really actually mentally helpless balanced perfectly on the top of a peak, where the merest breeze of despair or hope could push me over on one side or the other of giving up. 

But . . . a couple of days later… I was back on the Trail.  And when I saw Keith’s email, I began to wonder how we so much  ‘forget’ the misery over time, and often even over a very short time, of bad experiences.  They say that a woman will never have a second child if she really remembers the pain of labor, but somehow it is diminished over time.  People forget.  So, I was walking these past days occasionally wondering how people can forget bad times to such an extent and even:  does it serve a useful purpose?  Does this also go back to Cave-Man days?  Note that I am no more an anthropologist than I am an astronaut but,- isn’t there something good in remembering the feast at the fire after the kill versus remembering the terror of being charged by a giant mammoth before it was felled?  And remembering that feast would keep one hunting and serve survival. Always back to survival!  So, you can see that I’ve framed the issue in my mind as one of ‘Forgetting’ . . . how is it that we forget bad experiences so, not even conveniently I’d say, but deliberately, as a process of the brain and the way we’ve evolved?  How/why do we forget like that?    

And now the relevance to the Podcast:  The intellectuals discussed the idea of The Experiencing Self and The Remembering Self.  Absolutely fascinating.  Here’s how it works.  We all have our selves that are actually in the world experiencing things, it is heretofore what I’ve always thought of as simply ‘me’; I’m experiencing my life every day and that is me and that is all there is to it.  But, ah, there is also The Remembering/ed Self, which is the way you remember things about your life versus what actually happened.   They don’t perfectly overlap.  Here is the concept as not only proposed, but proven in controlled scientific experiments:  

The 60/90 rule. (On a scale of 1-10, 1 is the least pain and 10 is the most pain.)  If you give a person 60 seconds of pain at level 10 and stop, that person will remember that event.  If     you give another person 60 seconds of pain at level 10, followed by an additional 30 seconds of pain at level 5, that person will remember that event. And, you guessed it, the person who endured 90 seconds of pain versus the 60, will have a much better memory of the event–despite having endured 50% more time of pain! 

And here’s how it worked on me recently: the thing I most remember about the hypothermia event is when, in the sleeping bag, I felt like I was turning the corner from hypothermia to warming up.  And more revealing, in my recent blog post about my recent illness I state, not knowing this podcast was coming, that the thing I’ll really remember was the IV hanging above me with medicine, lights and compassionate ambulance people about me!  That ambulance ride was 35 minutes but I’d been throwing up in misery for three days!  (I really won’t milk this sickness episode any further- but I hope you can see how it fell nicely into the context of this essay.🙄)

This actually presents an ethics question for doctors:  should you let a person experience more pain in a procedure (do the 90 second thing), actually rendering more pain overall if you know that the person will have a better memory of the event for the rest of their lives than if you had spared them this Experienced-Self/Remembered-Self trickery? If you can manipulate someone’s memory of an event to the better, should you do it, at all costs?  (And my thought is that weighing decades of the memory against a short worse event is dispositive toward manipulation; how weird is this territory now?)

Another question: is this self-trickery useful as a human tool?  I’d argue it has outlived it’s usefulness.  Shouldn’t we make coherent decisions based upon our experiences, as they actually happened, versus how we remember them?  Isn’t that the rational course?  Example:  aren’t addictions this concept run wild?  People will remember the highs and not so much dwell on or remember stealing money from Grandma’s purse, or throwing up all night, or other humiliations attendanct to severe substance addictions.  Perhaps erasing this Remembered-Self dynamic from the addicts’ hard-drive would lead to more rational behavior.

Of course, the Remembered-Self dynamic might be positively contributing to having babies and not quitting Army Schools or the Appalachian Trail.

I give up. 

I’ll bet you thought you spent most of your time experiencing things versus remembering them disingenuously.  Not so fast!  Congratulations, and Welcome!  I introduce you forever to your Remembered Selves!

1 May – Standing Bear Farm to Brown Gap (9.8 miles)

Long delay in the morning waiting to meet Forest Gump’s girlfriend who had arranged to meet him here at Standing Bear Farm. We all agreed to wait and meet her because it seemed important to him but it meant that we didn’t get going until early afternoon.  She was very nice and I’m glad we got to meet her.

We hung around the fire area in the morning and Doodge and Fastlane played guitar.

This guy in the black leather jacket held my interest for a long time.  I talked to him about his Army experience and all his patches and convinced him to let me take these pictures.  Oh, you mustzoom in and read the patches.  I would say he is definitely sporting a certain ‘look’, dontcha’ think?!  Coming soon to date a daughter near you . . . (I’m just being awful– he was a really nice reasonable guy to talk to!) If I were him, I’d insure that jacket for $50,000.  

Was brutalized by going up Snowbird Mountain for the first 5 miles but, again, I had decent weather, though hot, and great health.  I was drenched in sweat all day and for the longest time on the ascent several drops of sweat would drop from the tip of my nose and brim of my hat at each step up.  But, I felt like I was ‘purging my system’ to an extent and kept myself in plenty of water and a few snacks enroute . . .I prefer the heat over freezing to death. ..

Some new wildflowers appearing all the time . . . 

30 April – Standing Bear Farm (Zero Day)

Stayed here all day to await Forest Gump, FastLane and Doodge behind me; they showed up mid-morning with my fleece shirt/thingy and since they were staying, I stayed another night. 

Best way to give you an idea of Standing Bear Farm -a little bit of Hippy Hiker Heaven- is with these pictures:

1.)  The place where everyone powers up!

2.)  The campfire area:  That’s Forest Gump on the left standing up with the orange shirt and beard / that’s Doodge center-right sitting down with the green shirt.

3.)  The laundry:  hand-scrubbing on a washboard!  But they do have a drier.  I did shorts, one shirt and socks only. . . 


4.)  The guy in the middle walking away in the blue shirt is FastLane. . . to his left, up those stone stairs is the resupply hut.

5.)  Cool stone bridge over a river where they sell beer (very popular), and cook the grill meals for a reasonable price and opposite is the shower place which is quite unique– and good.

6.)  The unremarkable plot of land where we had to pitch our tents if we didn’t book a bunk-room slot or private room, or the treehouse.  My tent is there somewhere . . .

The other two pictures are of various buildings.

So, the day was beautiful weather-wise and I just relaxed, had good food, and carefully resupplied.

How ’bout that?

29 April – Cosby Knob Campsite to Standing Bear Farm/Shelter/Campsite/Complex (10.7 miles)

Nice easy day hiking these 10.7 to get to the well-known and anticipated Standing Bear  Farm…

Health holding up very well…it’s great to feel strong again.

Set up my tent to await some follow-on folks I’ve been traveling with, had a great pork-chop dinner! that they served here, and talked with other hikers a good piece of the night around a fire. 

Quite a mix of ages, gender, backgrounds and nationalities…  all viewpoints are mostly Trail-friendly joking and discussing Trail Thru-Hiking stuff… occasional discussions evolve around social issues and discussions are respectful and intelligent …

We’re all starting to get the feeling that most of the people from this point forward are probably serious about trying to complete this thing…

28 April – Icewater Spring to Cosby Knob Campsite. (20.3 miles)

Put up some big numbers today!

This is what early morning breakfast disarray looks like:

     We then (traveling with Doodge and Forest Gump) came to Charlie’s Bunion, a well known lookout and fun precipice.  Here’s a short movie, and a picture of me on top (where I’m practicing my Mt. Katahdin pose.  Perhaps a bit premature.) 

     We talked about falling.  We traded stories about parts of the trail that had steep drop-offs.  I read a book last year called ‘Death In [the] Grand Canyon’.  (Thanks for the perfect Christmas present Memory!). In it, they’ve documented that most of the sudden falls from great heights occurred while a person was rising from a sitting to a standing position:  a fact I’ve since reminded a few people of when I saw them sitting precariously!  And I guess it makes sense: we are hard-wired to get up carelessly from the kitchen table, from sitting on the grass in the backyard.  

What has changed in these Grand Canyon death scenarios is that the consequences of a fluke stumble have gone from minimal to maximal the second one sits down on a precipice. It reminds me of the time I was working a cod-fishing trip on George’s Bank; a guy was reeling in a 40+ lb. codfish and had him on the surface and almost to the boat where I was waiting with a 14’ gaff. All was happiness, amazement and celebration. Suddenly, a huge long dark shape rose up underneath the fish; everybody went cold as a 180 degree arc of razor sharp teeth appeared behind the fish, slid up it, and closed cleanly and soundlessly at the shoulders of the 40 lb. cod! The guy reeled in the head, red blood spurting from the hatchet-clean slice, and the fish’s eyes were darting wildly about. Quite a sight in the sunlight!

     Death lurks just below.

27 April – Mt Collins Campsite to Icewater Spring Campsite (8.4 miles)

Well, I believe I have the answer to an age-old question: 

Yes.  Yes, in fact a bear does s#%t in the woods.  And sometimes right on the Trail.  Right after this,I got passed by a guy and he’d seen it too.  Then he says as he’s pulling away…”You know there’s 1900 bears in this park, right?”  OK.  How ‘bout not telling me everything.  Man, it was fresh, too. 

Shortly after this, I hit Trail Magic!  I was the first one there-another great spread-and I had some cold Powerade, hamburger, chips and some fruit…this was another one run by a church group: Baptist this time.  Warm generous people as always.

Interestingly, there were a couple of places where Wild Hog fences were protecting apparently rare and environmentally sensitive Beech groves.

AT 103:  Trail Maintenance people.  I’ve met several Trail maintenance people recently.  These guys do yeoman’s work, voluntarily, for the AT Conservancy.  They make steps, widen the path and clear fallen trees, and spend a lot of time building little structures to divert water off the Trail during rainfall.  Pete, here, is energetic and spent over 1,000 hours last year on maintaining the Trail—that is phenomenal!  Of course I thanked all these guys.

     So, I’ve been thinking about the meaning of life today.  Light fare.  I’m thinking of it as it relates to food, shelter, and (I’m going to nix clothing because hair sufficed for a great while—clothing seems like an evolution rather than an original necessity) water. 

     The release of our energies from the acquisition of these three as evolution permits allows for life to have meaning beyond survival—and that’s the meaning for life we must be talking about.

     First, let’s see how we got here:

     Water:  easy.  Lakes, rivers, streams and rain deliver enough water across enough areas of the globe to support life handily, notwithstanding distribution issues.

     Shelter: shelter has been originally available by construction with plants, mud, stone and largely trees- who knows what else?

     Food:  the evolution of abundant food was a little more hard-won.  Hunter-gathering for a long time, then we figured out how to grow enough food locally to sustain families and have a surplus, and then the agricultural revolution took progress from an arithmetic to a geometric progression.  The world flourished by the trade of necessities, and eventually luxuries and services as most people were able to disengage from directly producing the bare necessities:  food, shelter and water. 

    Secondly, thus disengaged, we must realize that if humans have free time, afloat upon abundance, it must be to do something with it.  Doing versus not doing is the obvious choice; to not do anything is anathema to the dynamics of life that we feel in our hearts and see on this busy little planet every second of every day.  It’s what living things are about:  doing.  So, if we should do something with our time, then what is it that we should do: good things or bad things?  The great majority of people fortunately recoil at the thought that it would be a purpose or a legitimate pastime for anyone to do bad things.  Since we’re not going to do nothing, and we’re not going to do bad things, we must be called to do good things.  And for whom/what?  Probably for everything; for the environment, for animals, and for each other of course.   I have seen this (doing for others) at work on the Trail.   I gave my silk ‘baselayer’undershirt away to a guy who had a severe rash on his skin and nothing to put against the friction his backpack was putting on his skin through his sweat- soaked cotton T-shirt.  Additionally, I’ve been given food on Trail when I’ve underplanned.  That’s how it goes; if we all do good for others, others will be doing good for us.  

Well that’s my take on the meaning of life!  Today.  Anyways! 🤓

26 April – Clingman’s Dome to Mt. Collins Shelter (2.3 miles)

Woke up and walked downtown early for breakfast at a place called The Breakfast Camp.  This is a super authentic looking monument to the old mountain-man logging-camp moonshine-hustling history of this place:  Gatlinburg.  The menu was inside of a mountain-man newspaper which contained historical articles of famous people and events of the era.  And, breakfast was really top-notch and inexpensive.  These pictures will give you an idea:

Yet, the place is also super hyped up on campy touristy stuff to the max!  

Only in America.  But, seriously, I really would want to go back and do all the fun stuff there- it’s a unique little town. 

Saw this hound dog hanging out a car window… how perfect for deep woods Tennessee.

So… got a shuttle back to Clingman Dome.  As we approached the top for me to resume my hike (along with 7 other hikers), the weather changed quite a bit.

I jumped into a bathroom, with others, at the visitor center to rapidly up-gun my clothing to the extent possible.  I came out into a Jack London survival story complete with all the fixin’s  except the sled dogs.  I had to lean into the (accurately predicted) 50 mph winds.  Holy moly cow- late April in the South?!

Fortunately, after plunging into the woods, the trees cut a lot of the wind and I just got pounded with cold rain and hail for a couple of hours.

I think the frogs and locusts are on hold for now.

Took a short day and stayed at Mt. Collins Shelter- where I am now writing this.  Lots of people here, myself included, absorbed completely in the business of staying warm and dry- wet stuff hanging everywhere.   Very crowded shelter due to the weather.  

Halfway through The Smokies!

25 April – Derrick Knob Shelter to Clingman Dome (10.3)

Another decent day of weather- with cold rain predicted for the afternoon and the following day.  

Took this early morning picture of what turned out to be a tent village- the most crowded site so far but all the people were nice as seems to be the norm.

Thought you’d enjoy the bird sounds on this early morning trek- It’s one reason I haven’t yet had my earbuds in so far-but I’m sure I will at some point; I’m not that much of a purist!

I stopped by this tree for a drink and short rest; this fat little bird deliberately hopped up all the way to the top of this branch and took a long look at me -right next to me- and began to sing to me.  (Again, folks, I’m sober as a judge out here.).  I sat there and listened and watched him and then moved on—and he was still singing.

More tree clams.  I can’t figure it out.  

Got to Clingman’s Dome, the highest point on the AT.  Then took a very reasonably priced shuttle into Gatlinburg with Doodge, Fastlane, and Forest Gump.  We stayed overnight and resupplied.  Before we left, since this was the 200 mile mark, someone did the usual rock numbers for us to take a picture of.  

You know what they say about the Appalachian Trail- if someone makes it the first 200 miles the odds go way up that they’ll love being warm and dry.

AT 102:  Shuttle Driver Stories.  There is a small and neat cottage industry of shuttle drivers who take Thru-Hikers into resupply points that are proximate to the Trail; a lot of these are former Thru-Hikers and some church groups do it as well.  So, on the rides, we hear stories from the drivers:  “Just dropped off a guy and his wife back on the Trail.  She’s on her 6th pair of trekking poles!  She keeps losing them and he keeps buying more for her!” 

While we were digesting this astonishing fact I wondered aloud if it would be cheaper for him to just divorce her and everyone laughed. 

Another one:  “I got a guy in here who just bought 22 cheeseburgers and had ’em in his pack.  He said he was tired of hiker food!  He said he’ll use them to trade with on the Trail also.  I asked him how long they’ll last and he said forever- because of the preservatives!”

So, we got into Gatlinburg.

Shower.  Laundry.  Sleep.